Anthony Vaccarello's sentimental show for Saint Laurent.
par EVÀNGELINA ROSE
photographe VOGUE RUNWAY
Just when I was about to give up on Anthony Vaccarello – given that post-Slimane Apocalyptic era the collections became dull and incongruous – tonight the Belgian designer restored my faith.
As the Eiffel tower's lights sparkled and gleamed upon the runway, audiences witnessed a tour through 55 years of fashion that distilled the essence of this iconic house. It was a tribute to Pierre Berge and the crown prince of fashion himself, Yves Saint Laurent.
Vaccarello elongated and chiseled Saint Laurent favourites. There was a contemporary twist on the iconic tuxedo Le Smoking and narrow ties. There were shots of animal prints from the iconic Rive Gauche collection and the tassels said Morocco. The recurring 80s brazen-loucheness theme was built into boxy shoulders, huge sleeves, sequins and chantilly lace. But the Saint Laurent moment par excellence was when models vamped in ostrich- feather dresses like the ones seen at Yves' last haute couture show in 2002.
These were grand soir statements and tonight's collection finally hit the target. The show will go on and I am certain that Vaccarello will be covered in glory. But the Eiffel tower's lights eternally glow because of those three initials - YSL.